Monday, August 10, 2009

Rosary Beads Around Ankle Tattoo

9 / 08 - Afek, a prickly pear and a half smile from the kibbutz

I started walking this morning at 8. The wretched wife of Walid I cheated: I sold it for € 1 a bottle of water ... the tap.
I throw away everything that does not hurt me, and I have 15 minutes of sizzling racism which revives the whole repertoire of anti-Arab bias available to a young European: thieves, rogues, swindlers, dirty, liars, murderers and bastards. Ok, me and 'past. Going forward
then I can not find 'shops to refuel. The fact is that at 9 am are already '40 degrees and Afekm intermediate step of my journey today, I get to 13 completely dehydrated.
practically dead already 'mummified.

ASfek and 'a little "thing" with housing in the middle, lost among miles and miles fields massacred by the sun, where even the sunflowers seem to agonize and earth,' so 'burned to become dust.
passed through the gates: it seems to be the only passage in a long perimeter fence and barbed wire.
I still have a range of 25 seconds before death. Human being who urgently wanted to save me ...
A woman, grumpy woman brings, on 50 ... and 'her!
- Excuse me! Shalom! Where can I find water? With grim look
she comes out of his meadow, slowly approaches me, I distrust team spurt. Usndo the necessary number of words tells me where to find the market. Maybe it 's closed, but'-he adds.
swallow a few molecules of saliva, disgustingly dry.
's going back to the grumpy woman brings to mind her own, but then takes his occho divine hand and leads them to look better in the shade of the visor of my hat.
- Come for a drink while you do not become dehydrated.
Thanks.
It 's not that I have lost the look grim, however.
As we go to his casottino-which looks like a brick bungalows, identical to several other remote distributed Regular fenced-in yard I try to strike up a conversation. The curiosity 'and' more 'strong exhaustion.
- That 's a kibbutz, right?
- Yes
- Um ... I'm Italian.
- Ah.
- Um ... I am going to Jerusalem. On foot.
- Ah. You are religious.
- Be '... in a sense! Do not freak, pero ', you know? [No, please do not start a theological discussion right now ...] And 'I like walking. [Here, bravo]
- Mh mh.
It 's not easy, gentlemen. Pero 'during this exchange, without losing the look grim, the lady of the kibbutz offers me a prickly pear peeled from the basin in his hand. I devour it hoping it can be hydrated at least Drinking to get to this famous drink.
arrive at her door and she stubble has just washed the floor.
disappears inside the house. With the skin from the sun that burned alive, I swear, does not forgive, I try desperately to flatten them to qualify for 15 centimeters of shade that casts a small shed.
Glu Glu. Reborn. A bit '.
- So thank you. It 'been very kind.
- Ok. No, wait. You fill a bottle.
Here. I made the effort. Lose even a bit 'of his strong resemblance to Clint Eastwood in its heyday. Do not look grim, however.
disappears back into the kitchen. Meta 'body breathes, half' is going to be ready to be served at the table, smoking. Low drain the pint before his eyes. Meanwhile
his dog wags his tail, yelps, and I lick your ankles.

Twenty blocks low, completely anonymous and unadorned, container type, distributed in an orderly, with a lot of distance between each other, connected by pedestrian vioottoli of rough concrete, in an area the size of a football field or slightly more ', they are able to make blanket of grass grow a sufferer and nearly a dozen trees.
As I said, runs all around the wire. All along the perimeter, inside the fence, there are several low buildings and ugly, we understand that are dedicated to small businesses' industries. Decentralized, the heart of public life: a three-storey building which combines orange market, cafeteria, post office (or rather closet mailbox), small library, four benches in the shade of a canopy. In all 'what' you do not see even a sign or written in any language.
The market then, and 'a room with ten half-empty shelves and four large fridge, two of them with the tailgate not transparent: it takes me a bit,' open and shut, open and close, to find a bottle of water.
short, it seems that nothing here is' thought to be available to someone who does not live here, even from everlasting to everlasting. The "communication" does not make much sense in fact. I wonder 'if' never passed another traveler, from here?

I stop to rest on a bench in the shade. I crouch like a predator waiting for someone to pass that allows me to find out about this famous world of the kibbutz.
Come on, come out! Christian is not 'anyone?!
After half an hour begins to appear in some shape. Every ten minutes a woman goes to market, goes to an old post, a guy goes to the market, a man at the table.
I'll try with all: Shalom! I'm italian ...
Looks grim alternate with non-glances, then at the third attempt to limit myself, "Shalom." Then I get down and stop altogether.
I get up and do a photo: I will have to 'take away something from this kibbutz, if not some first-hand information, at least one picture!
And so while I am shooting emerge two little boys in the shot, a man and a lei, they too chubby, 12 or 13 years.
He looks at me grimly and says something in Hebrew.
shake my head: - Inglese? Anglit? - Beg.
you, grimly, in English: - He wants to know what you've photographed.
Here. I did something wrong did. I have broken the rules. Now the big chimeras. And if the mother is like Clint Eastwood, the pope '...
- I photographed the ... the ... the kibbutz! (You can 'mean?! They call it really so?!? Not beep' irreverent ?!?!?)
- Ah.
Well, do not bat an eyelid. Then I go to the attack, her children and 'more' easy.
- Italian!
- Do you speak Italian?! - She says, in Italian. I won, I can feel it.
- I'm Italian!
She explains that some sort of Italian relative. You can not 'know more'.
- Where do you go?
- In Jerusalem. On foot - let's see if the lie down with this ...
- Ah.
I understand. Here there is a cave spider hole, I got bored.
Instead I want to get at least one spider, one thing you must tell me, dear girl plump:
- How many people live here?
- 300. Not families. People.
- Okay, hello, shalom.
Yes, you can go small. Considering this scorching heat of the earth and dialogue, your half-smile I'll just done in extremis' to get to your destination today.
Allocation.

Leaving the kibbutz I try to understand what I could compare this piece of land populated by humans in the middle of nowhere, perhaps a cross between a city 'Klondike twenty years later, when the Soviets never heard the news and the Soviet Union' collapsed, a tourist village abandoned tourists 'cause one day and' gone to sea.

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