For Akko still meet people, other Italians, who come from the West Bank and fill me with fresh stories, first hand.
enough, I have to get back on my journey to Jerusalem and from there try to visit Ramallah, Nablus, Jenin, Jericho, Hebron ...
Akko, sweet, beautiful, charming city, farewell, tomorrow I head to foot to Nazareth (which is approximately 45 km), I'll stop ' probably Iblin, halfway.
But before leaving the Mediterranean coast, where it is impossible to really think about that somewhere else, Jews and Muslims (and Christians all `at) is massacrino each other, I want to tell something of Haifa, and came back two days.
Haifa is from `the other side of the Gulf on all` I'm in now, from the port of Acre, the city with its skyscrapers built on top of the hill you can see well. The town is lively and cute, but is famous because of the shrine of the Baha `i religion Baha `i` a new monotheism, which claims to replace the other three previous all-absorbing aspects of the sacred texts, prophets, some principles, as did the then cristinesimo l `Islam. It is founded in 1800 by a visionary Persian that has nothing to do with the Holy Land, EXCEPT ', having been jailed and exiled because of his views were too modern ships prior to rot in Istanbul, then in the prisons of Akko, which is dead. Akko by his followers brought the body to Haifa because it was `c` a better view of the sea (I assume) to honor what they have built is called "the most beautiful garden in the Middle East." Not bad actually, I confirm: 18 treated terraces have to take the last blade of grass, which descend from the hill sloping down almost to the sea.
What's more funny is that according to this founder was forbidden to live in the Holy Land, because it is holy ` a desecration. The segueci of Bahaism (6 million worldwide) strictly comply with these instructions: they are for limited periods in rotation, so manialcale to take care of the garden and the tomb. In short, we live in the Holy Land one Baha `i: the founder. Dead.
Israle My second night I walked to the tortuous paths of Haifa, suddenly empty, dark and rather sinister to say the truth, full of ugly mugs crouched in the shade definitely ready to kill for 10 schekel.
But I had to find something to eat!
You will see the only place that was still open sandwiches and trovatomi holding something huge that could not be swallowed in its entirety, I searched places to eat quietly.
L `intuition, defying fears and prejudices, has led me to sit on a bench, in the famous dark alley, where 4 of these" ugly mugs "discussing whether to cut my throat or shoot me in the stomach.
Ameer, Tamer, Morad, Aisa.
We talked for two hours like old friends, burned with curiosity mutual telling and joking around a lot, doing word games, teaching songs, smoking hookah in turn the smell.
Morad, the more young, has twenty years', he says: "Why in Italy are all quiet? My cuigino studied in Italy and tells me that the people is always relaxed."
'm really curious to explore this new vision of Italian ...
"Here are all bad-more-no, not all of 50 and 50. They kill, steal, there is` the Mafia. In Haifa and is more comfortable but `we` good `. Look, I'm Christian, he is a Christian, and he himself are Muslims. We're friends, we come here every night, talk, smoke. All gioprni after work. We live in the same alley. Why should there be problems? Hence, the only problem has been in 2006 when Lebanon launch Katyusha rockets on Haifa, a rocket is dropped next to my house ... BOOM! "
"I would go to work in the United States, if I could," this is invce Ameer.
"Why the other hand, there are problems between Jews and musulamni?" I dare to ask.
Tuomi, what brought the hookah, responds to all: "I do not know."
Then everyone remains silent for a while.
The few words of Tuomi and the silence that follows, I consider them a satisfactory answer. Indeed, the best that I can receive.
I had to come here to hear this wise response, to meet these poor Arabs, curious, born in this city where they will die without ever being released.
Then go to kids, and for some tortuous streets like these, we end up talking about "donkey and transformation." At this point I ask if they know the story of Pinocchio. The CONOS. `The argument touches them in an indescribable way and instinctive; heats. D become a true human being, to become animal, and the reality, the `illusion ...
ponder: their day to day life in a stagnant condition limbic, isolated from the rest of the world-from the rest of the Arab world.
Such a condition of powerlessness: they see every day make decisions on their head, against them, even if only symbolically, as in the story of Jesus' Akko, or with daily reports of casualties in the occupied territories that might affect the their relatives. And they can not invoke anything. Can attach only to a vague and ineffective international outrage, which in 50 years did not lead to anything, with all UN resolutions by the various Israeli governments regularly violated, and no repercussions. (I'm not saying that Arafat is not to blame and `RESPONSIBILITY, quiet!, but that is another story). A condition
SO suspended and unfinished which makes me think of a Pinocchio stuck in mid transformation - still half wood, half a man already, and now that it `does not go forward nor back`. As surrogates of
PKDick.
And, more or less as in the case of all `` androids, living, dying, the `kill, let live, the sense of wonder, the tragedy, the rescue someone, the loss of his father or brother , so things are contiguous, separated by a `weak boundary so that one of these androids might be imprisoned in a single day to pass through them all, and another, stunned by the roar of History passes over with the force of a tank, it could happen to confodere `s one thing for another, tragically, death with life.
Ok, I apologize for the rhetoric, is out of hand too. But already here in the west coast, "paradise of coexistence between Jews and Arabs," what I see, what I hear tell, is touching me deeply.
I see their eyes, you see, I speak with them. Something always gets mistaken for, and in time to greet us, with these four guys from Haifa 4, with the 3 I knew in two days in Akko, c `and` I see a spark in their eyes, extend a handshake to that split second that can not go to bed and start to think about all `other.
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